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How to cut a thread on a manual lathe (Intermediate method ideal for home workshop u0026 hobby engineer)

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Description How to cut a thread on a manual lathe (Intermediate method ideal for home workshop u0026 hobby engineer)

Comments How to cut a thread on a manual lathe (Intermediate method ideal for home workshop u0026 hobby engineer)

Gutter???? Comment from : Martin Harrison

Yeah we have all got the same lathe with all those settings Maybe if we don't have a lathe with a brake and a counter dial what would you do ? How about turning from the back of the piece and running away from the chuck No need for a counter Comment from : rob smith

Watching in 2023/19/8 Comment from : Mukisa King digital Salongo

well it's a lathe wwwyoutubecom/post/UgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play Comment from : Morgan Alber

Thank u sir Comment from : Kenneth Cinco

Thank you Comment from : Bailey

Thank you sir, very nice explanation Comment from : Nathan

Suggest you check Colchester training films on screw cutting They show the topslide set over at half the thread angle The cut is applied using the topslide with the cross-slide left at zerobrSo you are only cutting on one edge of the tool, the other side of the thread being generated by the top slide Comment from : Harold Pearson

Nice video shot, keep it up, thanks for sharing it :) Comment from : Rixtronix LAB

I wonder if the pitch you are making is a factor of the lead screw pitch there is any need to use the dial indicator ? So for example if the lead screw pitch is 3mm, and you want to make a thread of eg 3mm, or 15, or 1mm etc, regardless of where the half nut is re-engaged it will nevertheless hit the spot Any comments ? Comment from : Bob Ridge

Not easy to do this in a lathe i think i forgot- have been years that i dont work with onethe most difficult is really know the best depth i think we never knew exactly it Comment from : roberto kandal

Great video 👍👍👍 Comment from : Fantasy Weapons

Excellent post straight to the point with no excessive verbal chatter (:0) Comment from : Fuzzy Tomcat

NIce lathe, good tooling, good job, good worker and excellent teacher Thank you 😊 Comment from : MerlinCH

My father used to do a 14 feet long shaft with easebrI was about 11 or 12 years old maybe He was a great turner Passed away in 2012 brWish he was alive to teach me all this stuff Comment from : Jaspreet Matharu

Will this method work if I don't yell 'Go!' when engaging the half nut? Comment from : HeathLedgersChemist

Your cross slide should not be used to advance the toolbit for each successive cut It should be returned to the same position (zero) for each cut The compound should be set to 295 degrees, and it is advanced for each successive cut of the thread Doing it this way means the toolbit is only cutting on one face, greatly reducing the tool pressure and improving the finishbrOtherwise great video! Comment from : Outlandish

I'd have to say, I disagree with this method being "less risky" because you are relying on remembering your last depth of cut on the cross slide dial by using the cross slide to control your depth brbrBy setting up and using the compound as you should, you do NOT have to remember the previous cut because its there the whole time since you are using the compound and never changing it except to increase depth of next cut (ie, you are never backing it out to clear you threads on the return) and all you have to remember is 0 (zero) on the cross slide Any distraction that might arise in the shop will not risk causing you to forget what your last depth was and risk possibly taking too deep of a cut and breaking the tool or messing up the part brbrPlus there is the simple fact that using the cross slide rather than the compound set at the 29 / 295° angle setting is causing the tool to cut full flank on both sides which causes chatter vs the angled compound is only causing the tool to cut on the leading side full flank and a very small amount on the trailing side so much less risk of chatter Comment from : CJ

Is that a left hand lathe? Comment from : TheLooking68

No cutting fluid? brWhat am I not understanding? Comment from : Bill Rogers

Really good video nice and clear Thanks Comment from : Stuart Kidd

Very good demonstration thank you Comment from : Neil S

Nicely done, sir Excellent organization, camera work, sound and editing It is one thing to know how to do the operation and entirely another to be able to communicate it effectivelybrOne thing this illustrates is the difference between a shop lathe and a small lathe like a Sherline that may have the lead screw gearing to cut threads but lacks refinements such as the dial Comment from : Old_Guard

Dude this is so great I have always wondered how this worked Because I have seen loads of videos where the camers is focused on the cut while threading but with no explaination I just assumed the person using the machine practiced their timing enough that they were just that good I am not ignorant enough to assume it was like mastering an "etch a sketch" But my interest lead me here because I want to know I wish I could meet someone that could traim me to use a lathe I would learn for free in exchange to benfit the master on my spare time This is some of the most interesting stuff I have ever come come by My wanting for things to be precise, mechsnical inclination, my ridiculous attention to detail, and drive would come in handy Time for another career change, what holds me back is that I do not have the freedom, nor can I afford to start off as a newbie This is it though I know itbr*Typos Comment from : Miguel Quazar

Very thankful Comment from : md riaz

I liked the way you explained the process at each step, but I'm not trying to teach you how to suck eggs, but when you're reengaging the thread cutter, after it's been moved, engage the drive as you would normally but keep the cutter off the job Stop the Lathe with everything engaged and using the cross side move the cutting tool from left to right so it is in the correct position in relation to the thread It will now be in the correct position to finish cutting the threads I have also been told but haven't tried it yet, that if you can use the thread gauge to check the correct depth of the thread as well as the pitch Great Video Comment from : Andrew Nicholson

youtube/wvYQdi68074 Comment from : mohamad ashraf

HiWould it also be possible to just pick a number on the dial,and stick with it? Comment from : Max smith

Nice and great job 👍👍👍 Comment from : Best Motivational Speech

Waste of time if you had threw tap shank onto the machine it would had been a 5 seconds video, instead you tried to be technical and explained things that nobody probably care about Comment from : dread knot

Thanks, studying for a test but don't machine anymore Comment from : Brian Skellenger

What kind of nut is that? I’m not familiar and it looks backwards Someone told to tighten nylok nuts like that and I knew he was wrong I wonder if he thought it was a nut like the one you’re using Comment from : Joe W

Engaging and disengaging the half nut is a waste of time As long as the lead screw is on , the forward motion will follow the same root Comment from : frank Bruno

Nice work sir,excellent Comment from : Carlito Gayuma

Thank you, great tutorial Comment from : erfut

I doing this from last 10 years in Singapore And i love to make it Comment from : Rubel Khan

what if my machine is not like your ?! Comment from : ChioTB

My lathe was built before threads were invented if I win the lottery I will upgrade ! ( some nice tip in that vid such as highlighting the part ) Comment from : Stephen Watson

Use a Zeus engineering book for whitworth and British fine threads Comment from : David Tucker

Cutting tool name Comment from : Shailendra Chauhan

7:27 Did he just say "1/4 of a millimeter" ? ONE QUARTER OF A MILLIMETER??? What happened to "metric is great because you don't have fractions and count only by 10's" ? and here he is, using fractions I'm going to report you the the Globalist Metric Zealots Counsel and you will be caned with a yard stick! Comment from : bill shiff

Exellent video sir, very useful for us You told some of tricksThank you so much sir Comment from : Arumugam M

youtube/hXbN9vnCEBs watch this amazing work Comment from : incredible moments

Muito bom trabalho Excelente explicação Comment from : Alex KöGler

Comment from : fehmi atas

This is a good, thorough, tutorial covering ALL steps in setting up the machine I would offer to immediate improvements to ending up with a better thread The first being a faster spindle RPM It appeared the RPM chosen was simply the slowest which is fine But the problem is this cutting speed is in fact very slow on purposebrbr1) A faster CS would automatically provide a better finish on the thread form But this is up to the operator and their comfort zone with operating the half-nut disengagement only, for this one example As determined and explained, for this thread pitch, any of the 8 engagements on the thread dial indicator will keep the pitch so there is no challenge factor in engaging and this engagement can be as far away from the thread start point aw the operator chooses It is the "disengagement" that is the critical point but this is also dependent on how wide the relief is Nothing wrong with practicing this technique It just requires concentrationbrbr2) The depth of cut chosen was very deep on the second pass Considering the extremely low RPM, this resulted in extremely poor surface finish because the metal was literally tearing off the parent material and the surface finish looked awful The depth extreme depth of cut can be taken, but it need NOT be that deep As the final thread depth of cut is approached, the actual cutting depth should be reduced, simply because there is more material being removed at the deeper cutsbrbr3) And lastly, it is very common practice to run at least one "extra" pass after the last finish depth has been reached Even though this bar is supported on a center, the bar material still deflects There was a lot of tool pressure still on the last cut A "cleanup" cut just makes sense to perform It will literally always improve the thread surface finish as well which is what the female thread is going to be running onbrbrThere wasn't very much offered about "fitting" the thread and the testing of the nut did not reveal very much either nor was there any mention about the fit/class but considering this was only a tutorial using the cross-slide, enough said Comment from : taxicamel

Sangat luar biasa Comment from : KULI TEHNIK

Well done Comment from : Hgdhlö KarlP

I said only one things: so said you THANK YOU for sharing us your work on a Lathe!! God bless you and your families and friends in UK!! best regards fron Santiago of Chile, SouthAmerica!! Comment from : Sergio Aranguiz Thompson

Wrong You need to put the compound on a 60 degree angle and increase the depth of cut with the compound not the cross slide The thread has a 60 degree profile Therefore the cutting tool will cut on the lead side of the cutting tool making a cleaner thread You also didn't show how to use a 60 degree thread center gage to make sure the cutting tool is perpendicular to the work Cutting oil works wonders in making a nice clean thread too Comment from : Billy Goat

MarcsismbrCommunismbrCapitalismbrLiberalism andbrMankind have tried all these, and failedbrIt is time for the only school of thought made by God and brought to us bybrbr#ThePromisedSaviour Comment from : mohamad kamali

How do you determine how deep to cut? For example, for your 15 pitch, how deep should the thread be? Comment from : Serhiy Ranush

Gggooood Comment from : mohamad ali nagafdari

thanks for sharing this method brbrI will check it out on my kather when it arrives Comment from : Tiger Carpenter

I'll probably never be able to afford one of those lathes, but I still found this interesting Comment from : Fosty

Für Kupfer unbedingt eine größere Schneide nehmen, sonst brechen die Flanken ab Den Aufbau längsdrehen Comment from : Silent Hill Fetishist

Nice video for demonstrating cutting metric threads, may also add depending on what brand of lathe swapping gears to do metric or atandard threads Ive been cutting threads on old school lathes for 35 years myself,over all great video Comment from : Timothy Bird

Your running much to slow these tools are made to run 5-6 times the speed your running and your get a lot better finish Comment from : Brian Turnbull

Realy enjoyed that 👍 Comment from : Richard Benson

Great video! I really appreciate the detail you used Comment from : Jason Rad

Excited to see this video as that's the exact lathe I just bought (Mine's in inches) I'm new to thread cutting How have you determined the beginning diameter prior to cutting the threads? Comment from : Don Swords

Interesting, very inspiring indeed Thank you Comment from : cisco5400

Thanks for that great work may i ask a question?When i end the cutting and go to the beginning i must be away from the thread cut 1 or 2 or 3 or 4 etc times the pitch of the thread or simply go back to exactly where i started how can i go manually to the same place do you use some kind of indicators to do so? Comment from : yousef Bghagho

thanks manbr great video Comment from : The Ethiopian Engineer

Great instruction with perfect clarity Thank you for sharing your insights via this video! Comment from : Mad Eddies Man-Style Monster Machine Shop

Smashing, brilliant, awesome! Comment from : Italis

Hi, new sub, just found your channel, really liked how you did this I'll be looking forward to work my way through your other videos Thanks! Comment from : Three In One

Hello I have should be your contact number and I have should be threading tool holder I am Indian Comment from : Damodar Pandit

Do you have a video for the beginner way? Comment from : Chipotlaway

I mean i dont now the benefits of doing this on the turning machine but why not use especially Made cutting Tools for this Comment from : Josh

Hi everyone can i ask on how to describe the different technique on cutting: brSmall-diameter thread brLarge-diameter and fine threads Comment from : JOHN REX MAMINTONG

Always wondered how this was done Thank you! Comment from : Peter Ritter

Excellent video Comment from : M E LEARNING TECH

Thanks for showing great tutorial ,nice and simple Comment from : Vince o brien

Thank you for an excellent threading video, best I have seen You mention an advanced method, but I cannot find it in your videos, am I missing something or is it work in progress? Comment from : REDLION0044

Super tutorial Comment from : William Harvey

Best video 👍 Comment from : Tribes078

If like in the Vid' the threading tool doesn't quite go back as it it should - this can be corrected using the "Compound Slide" Comment from : Martin Burnell

Thread cutting oil would give a better thread finish I thought the threads looked a little rough Comment from : John Oler

That's how I learned it during my apprenticeship but we also rotate the toolpost Very good tutorial! Comment from : BLECHHAUS

Very well explained Comment from : Golo1949

Fantastic, very easy to follow Thanks for sharing Comment from : Stefan Karlsson

I don't have a lathe and I found this very interesting Thank you Comment from : R L saved

your spinning way to slow that's why your thread looks like shit ;D using hss tools would be better at this speed next to that on some machines you dont have that number disky thing you use to start the thread so i would never advice to engage the thread nut cos if you dont get it out on time your done better just stop spinning Comment from : toby

Im about to start working on one of those, i have basic knowledge but it would be great if you had a video explaining every feature of the machine Comment from : CrazyLittleHacker

Funny this should come up I have a Myford ML7 and I was doing an internal acme thread yesterday It's a bit of a challenge Comment from : John Hoyles sceptre of self-sodomy

In 12m i would made like 10 of does around 250 rpm to 320 rpm using the cut oil in everyone Youre kinda slow Sir Comment from : Sempraviar

Which of the cutting tools you use to cut thread Comment from : Kojo Mensah

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